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he
cloth is an element of primary importance in the confection
of a suit.
It can be heavy or light, soft or releasing,
must however have a "good hand", that for the tailor is
synonymous of first quality (from shoddy cloth will never be possible
to gain a good suit).
Of no smaller importance, even if not visible
, the inners of the jacket. They are its foundations,
therefore like a house without foundations at the minimal jolt
collapses, the jacket with inadequate inners is destined to become
flabby in short time.
The inners are the hemps and
the horsehair.
The hemps must have some essential
characteristics: weight, softness and elasticity
have to be proportioned to the type of cloth used.
The horsehair must have the same dowries
added to that "stiffness" that creates those "bombč" at
the chest typical the handicraft jacket.
The seams tucked and finished with
points by hand with thin silk thread, the buttonholes
made by hand with large silk thread completely cutted
also on the wrists.
The sartorial collar and necklet , made
precious by stitches by hand, the sleeves with tucked turn "type
shirt", a beautiful "small boat" pocket the linings
completely sewn by hand.
All these particulars together , are the
uniqueness that is property of the handicraft suit.
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